Features Overview

REptoid Brooch and Earrings

These are part of a new body of work exploring ecological impacts of human interaction and pollution on reptiles in relation to ideas of social status, fast-fashion and biomimicry. This pair of earrings and brooch, are inspired by my obsession with the novelization of alligator skin in the realms of fashion, design, vanity and how it relates to social class. The texture of alligator leather seems to titillate the masses. I wonder if this coveting of the leather has to do with the power these animals hold and if, when wearing it, on our shoes or boots, or carrying it, as a bag or jacket, others seem to feel as though they also exude that power in their self-expression. 

How it’s made

Cloisonné enameled jewelry is created by fusing and melting powdered glass to the surface of, in this case, copper shapes. Once you have a nice layer of enamel on both sides of the copper, thin strips of fine silver are shaped into decorative “cells” and fused onto the enameled surface. Once intact, the cells are layered with beautiful colors and textures and each layer is fired for about 2 minutes at about 1500°F or 800°C.

Once there are enough layers to reach the top of the fused fine silver strips, the whole piece is sanded with diamond pads, cleaned, and then re-fired once more to bring back the glassy surface. With the enamel piece complete, sterling silver sheet is decoratively cut and textured as a setting to hold the enameled shapes. Long, sturdy sterling ear wires are soldered in place and the enameled shapes are set onto the backing with prongs.

It is a slow, detail-oriented, and enduring process. Each tiny sliver of silver, individually shaped and fused to the surface of the enamel, is formed with tweezers. Once these silver wire “cells” are in place, colored enamel is laid into the little cells, fired for 2 minutes and then cooled. This is repeated layer by layer, color by color, cell by cell, until the whole piece of copper has been transformed into an invigorating glassy color spectrum. Cloisonné enameling is like creating newly discovered gemstones that are then set in truly one-of-a-kind sterling silver settings.